| NOTE: These instructions are for wheelsets with metal axles and 
				wheels. For wheelsets with metal wheels and non-conductive axles 
				(e.g. 
				Kadee) modify these instructions by gluing the resistor to 
				the center of the axle and using the conductive paint to create 
				a conductive path from each resistor electrode to a wheel.
   
				 Each car should have a minimum of two resistors, one axle per 
				truck. I install them on the inboard axle, so as to make them 
				more discrete, but it is up to you. Optimum resistor values are
				10,0000 ohms (10K) 1/8 watt or
				10,0000 ohms (10K) 1/10th watt. Bear in mind that the 1/8 
				watt resistors are plenty small, but the 1/10th watt are really, 
				really small (approximately the size of a Kadee knuckle coupler 
				spring). Both wattage values will work equally as well. 
				Resistors cost around 1-2 cents each when purchased in lots of a 
				1000, but can be even cheaper if they are purchased in 
				quantities of 5000 or more. 
 Most chip resistors that have been done to date have been 
				attached using 5-minute epoxy, which is mixed up in small 
				amounts to do about 3 or 4 axles at a time. However, an 
				alternative method being used is
				IC-2000 rubberized CA Adhesive (it is the fourth one down on 
				the page) by BSI (Bob Smith Industries). It is a good adhesive 
				for attaching resistors to wheelsets since it is a CA type 
				adhesive so it sets up fast, but not too fast, and it retains 
				its elasticity (shock resistant) after it dries. Unlike 
				conventional CA, which can become brittle once it cures. 
				Rubberized CA is used frequently by the R/C car guys to attach 
				rubber tires to the hubs, therefore Larry's Hobbies (North 
				Houston Hobby Dealer) is a good local supplier. A 1 oz. bottle 
				of IC-2000 runs around $8.00. I understand it is also possible 
				to purchase BSI IC-2000 at outdoor sporting goods centers, since 
				it can also be used for patching rubber boots, rafts, etc. The 
				IC-2000 makes the job go much faster and is ready for the 
				conductive paint in about 5-minutes after application.
 
 As for the silver print circuit board repair paint, it is 
				available in a small pen-like applicator and in 1/2 oz. bottles. 
				The CircuitWorks brand of pen costs about $16, which I've heard 
				both good and bad things about. I've heard that the pen has a 
				tendency to clog, but others swear by it, since it can make the 
				process move along quicker than using a brush. It's up to you as 
				I've never used it myself. I think the pen can be purchased 
				locally from Fry's Electronics over on I45 near West Rd. or you 
				can get it mail order
				CircuitWorks Conductive Paint Filled Pen (scroll down to 
				where it says "CircuitWorks Conductive Paint Filled Pen") I have 
				no idea which tip size would be better.
 
 The
				Silver Print (scroll down to p/n GC-22-023) by GC 
				Electronics, is available via mail-order for around $25 for 1/2 
				ounce, which will do thousands of wheelsets. The silver print is 
				also available in a 1 oz. bottle for those that might want to go 
				in together to split a larger bottle, since it costs less (about 
				$42 for 1 oz. bottle). The bottle that the silver print comes in 
				is actually a liquid nail polish bottle and it has the typical 
				nail polish type brush attached to the cap. This brush, however, 
				is way oversized for our needs, so I apply it with a
				Floquil 
				#5/0 red-sable brush. In addition, if you go the route of the 
				silver print, I recommend you put a few BBs (pre-cleaned in 
				lacquer thinner, so you don't contaminate the contents with the 
				light oil that comes on the BBs) in the bottle. The silver print 
				is made with real silver powder in a lacquer solution and the 
				pigment is very heavy and likes to settle to the bottom of the 
				bottle, especially when it sits for long periods of time between 
				use. In order to get the best results, you really need to shake 
				it well and BBs help to break up the heavy pigment and make a 
				nice rattle noise when it is ready for use. Use straight lacquer 
				thinner to clean brushes.
 
 As for pre-resistored wheelsets, I know of two sources:
 Jay-Bee Wheelsets are available through Walthers, and 
				therefore, available through most hobby shops. However, you most 
				likely need to special order them. Please note, Jay-Bee 
				wheelsets have slightly oversized axles to accommodate the 
				resistors inside the axle. I personally have not used them, but 
				I have heard some bad things about the quality control on 
				Jay-Bee Wheelsets on various MRR newsgroups in the past in 
				regards to the wheelsets not being in gauge or the resistors not 
				making contact. When you try to regauge them by twisting the 
				wheelset you end up breaking the continuity between the wheels 
				and you just end up with a plain old expensive fat-axle 
				wheelset. They may have gotten a little better with their QA 
				recently, so its up to you whether or not you want to give them 
				a try. Walthers lists them for about $2 per axle (sold in 
				packages of 10).
 
 Another pre-resistored wheelset source is
				Logic Rail Technologies 
				from the Houston, TX area. Logic Rail Technologies supplies 
				standard NWSL 
				detectable wheelsets with 15K chip resistors glued on, much 
				like you would do yourself. 15K is a little on the high-side for 
				a resistor value, but they will work, just may not be as 
				reliable as the 10K value. However, with 2 detectable axles per 
				car, it shouldn't be a problem. Also, if you order a substantial 
				amount, Logic Rail Technologies may be willing to change the 
				resistor value to whatever you request. Logic Rail Technologies 
				price list shows they cost around $9 per 4 axles (approx. $2.25 
				each).
 
 A misconception of some modelers is that they just plan to 
				change out one axle per truck and leave the existing axles 
				installed. Technically, this will work as long as the wheels are 
				the same diameter, however, the aesthetics of the car can be 
				compromised. By compromise, I mean HO wheelset profiles are like 
				snow flakes and differ from manufacturer-to-manufacturer, the 
				new resistored wheelset profiles will most likely not match the 
				existing wheelsets leaving the wheels on trucks looking funny 
				because the wheelset faces will be different. The obvious 
				solution is to change out all the wheelsets with wheelsets from 
				the same manufacturer to assure that the wheel-face profiles are 
				all the same. Since the manufacturers that make resistored 
				wheelsets also make standard wheelsets, you only have to 
				purchase one resistored wheelset per truck and then use that 
				same manufacturer's non-resistored wheelsets for the remaining 
				axles. The next obvious - and least expensive - solution is to 
				just add resistors to your existing wheelsets (as long as your 
				current wheelsets have metal wheels). Adding resistors to your 
				existing metal wheelsets solves both the unsightly "snow flake" 
				wheel face profile issue and gives you detectable axles on each 
				truck for a fraction of the cost.
 
 In closing, you can make your car detectable for mere pennies 
				per axle, but they are available commercially if you wish to go 
				out and purchase them pre-made. In addition, you are free to 
				paint the wheelsets after you apply the resistors and silver 
				print if you like, however, it is recommended that you mask the 
				wheelset tread before painting or clean it thoroughly after 
				painting since the paint will severely inhibit the detectability 
				of the wheelset.
 
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